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Across the border in County Derry, PORTSTEWART , like Portrush, is full of Victorian boarding houses. Of the two, Portstewart is decidedly quieter and has always had more airs and graces: the train station is said to have been built a mile out of town to stop the hoi polloi from coming. In terms of sheer location, though, Portstewart wins hands down. Just west of the town is Portstewart Strand (car £2.50), a long sand beach firm enough to drive on - which the locals delight in doing - with some of the best surfing in the country. It's a grand place too, if you hit fine weather and feel like getting out your bucket and spade. The best way to take the sea air is the bracing cliffside walk which runs between the beach and the town, passing battlements and an imposing Gothic mansion, now a Dominican College.
The tourist office in the Town Hall (July & Aug Mon-Sat 10am-4pm; tel 028/7083 2286) can help with accommodation bookings if you have any problems - there's less choice here than in Portrush. B&Bs are mostly along the promenade or nearby. Hotel accommodation is available at the Edgewater Hotel , 88 Strand Rd (tel 028/7083 3314; £90-110), which has breathtaking views from its lounge bar. There's also the good independent Rick's Causeway Coasthostel at 4 Victoria Terrace (tel 028/7083 3789) and a municipal caravan park , Juniper Hill , at 70 Ballyreagh Rd (April-Sept; tel 028/7083 2023). Morelli's , on the promenade, is justly famous for its ice cream, and also serves snacks and Italian food in Nino's next door. The busy local haunt Shenanigans , 78 The Promenade (tel 028/7083 6000), is a mid-priced restaurant on the main drag, while Ashiana , 12a The Diamond (tel 028/7083 4455), is the best tandoori in these parts and not too expensive. In the evenings, Nero 's nightclub , part of Nelly's Complex on Coleraine Road, is the place for late-nighters, and has a pleasant pub attached. The Anchor bar is the place to try for traditional music while the Flowerfield Arts Centre , 103 Coleraine Rd (tel 028/7083 3959), runs a variety of courses and stages occasional exhibitions.
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