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YORK is the north's most compelling city, a place whose history, said George VI, "is the history of England". This is perhaps overstating things a little, but it reflects the significance of a metropolis that until the Industrial Revolution was second only to London in population and importance, not only at the heart of the country's religious life, but also a key player in some of the major events that have shaped the nation. These days a more provincial air hangs over the city, except in summer when York feels like a heritage site for the benefit of tourists. That said, no trip to this part of the country is complete without a visit to the city. York is well placed for any number of day-trips , the most essential being that to Castle Howard , the gem amongst English stately homes.
The City Take a look at one of the maps dotted around the city centre and you're confronted with a baffling and intimidating prospect. If the tourist office is to be believed, there are around sixty churches, museums and historic buildings crammed within York's... read more >>
In keeping with much else in the city, many establishments are relentlessly and self-consciously old-fashioned, though there are some real highlights - truly historic pubs , the remarkable Betty's , the ultimate tea-shop experience, and a scattering of well-regarded restaurants . The coffee and café-bar scene has flourished too, with the main chain-names all represented, alongside some honourable independents.
Tearooms, cafés and café-bars Betty's 6-8 St Helen's Square. If there are tea shops in heaven they'll be like Betty's , serving a dozen or so fish and meat hot dishes, some extraordinary puddings, and a takeaway counter. Daily 9am-9pm. Blake Head... read more >>
Restaurants 19 Grape Lane 19 Grape Lane tel 01904/636366. Renowned town-house restaurant serving top-quality Modern British dishes, including some great puddings. Closed Sun & Mon. Expensive. The Patio 13 Swinegate Court East, off Grape... read more >>
Pubs Black Swan Peasholme Green. York's oldest (sixteenth-century) pub with some superb stone flagging and wood panelling. Home of the city's folk club. Golden Fleece 16 Pavement. One of the oldest pubs in the city, squeezed into a... read more >>
There are healthy helpings of live music, culture and nightlife , much of it detailed in the local Evening Press (and on their useful website, ). Most bigger bands bypass the city in favour of Leeds, though the Barbican Centre pulls in its fair share of major mainstream artists, while the pub music scene flourishes. The annual Early Music Festival , held in July, is perhaps the best of its kind in Britain, with dozens of events spread over ten days - details are available on 01904/658338 or from the tourist offices. The famous York Mystery Plays are held every four years - next performances are in 2004.
Clubs and live music Barbican Centre Barbican Road tel 01904/656688, . Country, rock, folk and MOR stalwarts all appear here sooner or later. Black Swan Peasholme Green tel 01904/632922. Regular folk nights with a full range of quality... read more >>
Cinema, theatre and the arts City Screen 13-17 Coney St tel 01904/541155, . The choice for art-house cinema, with a riverside café-bar. Grand Opera House Cumberland Street, at Clifford St tel 01904/671818 . Musicals, ballet and family... read more >>
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